230v 800w Near Infrared Heat Lamp quartz halogen heat lamp

230v 800w Near Infrared Heat Lamp quartz halogen heat lamp

230V 800W Near-Infrared Quartz Halogen Heat Lamp: The Real Story

Here’s the deal: we built this 230V, 800W heat lamp for one reason—when your process needs heat, fast, and you don’t want to waste energy warming up the whole room. It’s a direct-output heater, pure and simple. Inside, it’s a quartz halogen lamp. That means the filament runs hot and bright, and thanks to the halogen cycle, the output stays steady over time. No fading. No fuss.

Power, Voltage, and Output—What It Feels Like on the Floor

At 800W on 230V, the draw is predictable, which plays nice with standard industrial circuits. You can run several units off a properly rated panel without rewiring everything. The magic is in the near-infrared spectrum. Heat comes as radiant energy, so it zeroes in on the target—plastics, coatings, adhesives, parts you’re preheating—instead of getting lost in the air. And the response? Lightning-quick. The filament hits operating temperature almost instantly, so you get rapid heat-up and a clean shut-off the moment the process says “stop.”

Material and Design—What Holds Up Under the Heat

The quartz envelope is built to handle extreme filament temperatures and take the shock of repeated on/off cycles. No drama. Inside, the halogen gas keeps the halogen cycle going, which reduces blackening and helps the lamp keep a steady output for its life. The R7s base is a compact, two-pin design that’s proven in the wild. It lines the lamp up perfectly in the reflector and holds tight even when things vibrate. Installation? Line up the pins, seat the lamp, lock it down. Done.

Where It Shines—Applications and What to Keep in Mind

Use this when you need a compact heat source that can pack a lot of heat into a small footprint. Think preheating molds, curing coatings, drying surfaces, or softening thermoplastic components. Because it heats the target directly, you’re not spending extra energy heating the air around it. That’s a real difference you can feel in efficiency. Now, here’s the honest part: that concentrated output means you need to manage heat at the machine side. Your fixture, reflector, and nearby components have to be rated for the temperature. You’ll also need solid ventilation to pull excess heat away. Plan your mounting distance so you hit the right surface temperature without cooking nearby sensors or wiring. Set it up thoughtfully, and it just works.